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Ice, fireplace and feuds: at the trail of Iceland’s sagas

The sagas are “our national identification”, says Icelandic actor Oddur Júlíusson. Based on ancient events that in general passed off among the ninth and early eleventh centuries, they have been narrated inside the farmsteads of Iceland since the Middle Ages. Júlíusson plays the Icelandic Sagas Greatest Hits in Reykjavík, a comedy model in both Icelandic and English of all forty of the “family sagas” – stories of feuding, romance, tremendously difficult criminal tactics, sorcery, and sea battles. “We are constantly reminded of these stories,” he advised me, “and we name kids after characters in them.”

The sagas are the document of ways Iceland became settled through refugees and migrants from (in particular) Scandinavia: how they divided the land, hooked up clans and family alliances, built their very own prison machine and ditched the antique Norse gods for Christianity. So excessive are passions round those tales that, inside the wake of Iceland’s independence in 1944, the repatriation of the original saga manuscripts from Denmark became a remember of diplomatic urgency. After much wrangling, these medieval calf-pores and skin parchment commenced being lower back from 1971: the Danish military frigate that carried returned the primary vellum became greeted through flag-waving crowds in Reykjavík harbor.
Traveling the routes of the sagas took me all over Iceland, however, some episodes are simpler to place than others. When it comes to the famous Grettir’s Saga, I wasn’t assured approximately emulating the cantankerous hero’s battles with a ghoul and a she-troll, but there was one fail-safe manner to duplicate his adventures: by means of getting into warm water. Roaming across northern Iceland, I hiked from the port city of Sauðárkrókur, past sheep farms and pony fields, and slid into a stone-lined “hot-pot” at Grettislaug, warm with volcanically heated water, in which the medieval hero is stated to have bathed.

“It’s a true story,” insisted the site manager, Ingi, who periodically dips a thermometer to check the temperature. “And we nevertheless read it, even now!” Behind the bathtub, campers bustled in a wood kitchen and set up their system between the webbing of guy-ropes, ready to seize the northern lighting fixtures as soon because the early nighttime cloud caul dispersed. I set up my tent alongside them.
Landscape plays a chief function in Icelandic sagas. Hitch-trekking across the west of u . S. A ., I crossed dramatic plains of lava rock mantled in moss that characteristic within the Eyrbyggja Saga. In the story, a farmer units his antagonists the task of constructing a bypass via the lava undeniable, anticipating them to fail – after they are successful, he murders them in a bath house.

I made my manner right down to the fishing port of Borgarnes, wherein a museum has been opened in honor of the popular Egil’s Saga, with scenes from the tale reimagined the use of recycled fishing gear. And I rambled around the windswept hills and heaths of Laxardal, where the sagas’ best heroine, Guðrun, experiences some of the various reverses of her tumultuous life. Sometimes I wild camped, pitching my tent by means of roadsides and on the rims of fields, however more often than not I stayed in campsites, which might be considerable in Iceland (and regularly well-prepared with kitchens and energy hook-ups).

In the Laxdæla Saga, Guðrun ends her life on Helgafell, the “sacred mountain”. As I hitched there, I turned into scooped out of rain squalls via a Polish motel worker after which with the aid of a neighborhood goose hunter, whose automated rifle bounced on the returned seat. From the main street wherein I changed into dropped off, the mountain loomed behind pastures and peat loos, its form suggesting a burial mound, as though it were sculpted to awaken the numerous pagan heroes it reportedly entombed, before being rebranded as Christian Iceland’s most hallowed place.
Here, Guðrun has become “the primary lady in Iceland to emerge as a nun and anchoress”, in line with the saga. At the foot of the seamy mountain, a rock is engraved with Guðrun’s most famous announcing: “To him, I turned into worst who I cherished excellent.” A direction winds among bushels of crowberry and spongy moss, and the wind roars throughout the hilltop like a Nordic god on an afternoon ride from Valhalla. The panoramic scale is breathtaking – lakes and marshland, Skerries (rocky islets) brooding inside the firth, drumlins powdered with glacial flour, pastures dotted with sheep. Downhill from the mountain, a church spikes over a graveyard, where the heroine’s call is inscribed below welts of lichen at the tomb traditionally ascribed to her.

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